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Aiguille de Bionnassay: NW face

1000m face between 3000 and 4000m: best to be acclimatized!  The face has a lot of crevasses, with seracs everywhere; not a place to linger.  Feels exposed near the top.


From the Nid d'Aigle go S up the "désert de Pierre Ronde" until about 2950m, then traverse the Bionnassay glacier.


Climb the 1000m of the NW face, on the true left side, (right looking upwards,) weaving your way between the numerous crevasses and a large bergschrund at about 3650m.


On ski: by the same route, taking a good note of the line on the way up.
On foot: Either go back to the Durier hut or continue to the Dome de Gouter and down the Mont Blanc normal route by the Gouter hut, (see S ridge and Traverse of the Bionnassay)

  • Difficulty: S5 - Very difficult (40-50°)
  • Danger/Exposure: E3 - Very high
  • Total climb: 2652 m
  • Total elevation drop: 2652 m
  • Highest altitude: 4052 m
  • Lowest altitude: 1400 m
  • Extra gear: None
  • Lift access: No



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