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Aiguille de l'Amône: NE face

Wonderful face, clearly visible from the Grand Lui; its profile being particularly stunning when viewed from La Fouly.  The route should be done early in the season, if it is to be done on foot, (as opposed to on skis), as the crevasses and bergschrunds rapidly become a problem.


From La Fouly go up the path towards the cabane de l'A Neuve. At about 2200m altitude go westwards to get onto the A Neuve glacier and go to the foot of the spur at 2261m coming down from the col d'Argentière.


Make a rising traverse to the SW to gain the foot of the NE face. Climb the lower part then traverse diagonally leftwards before going straight up to reach the summit.

Descent (on foot to the Argentiere Glacier)

Follow the ridge to the Amone gap, often snow, sometimes mixed.   From the gap take the SW gully,  (some guidebooks describe  a secondary gully which leads to the SW gully, this is not recommended as the rock is very poor.) Climb down the gully, with the possibility to make some abseils.  There are some rings in place but if you foresee abseilling make sure you bring extra slings etc.

  • Difficulty: S5 - Very difficult (40-50°)
  • Danger/Exposure: E4 - Extremely high
  • Time: 06:00 hours
  • Total climb: 2000 m
  • Total elevation drop: 2000 m
  • Highest altitude: 3586 m
  • Lowest altitude: 1600 m
  • Extra gear: None
  • Lift access: No



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