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Aiguille de la Lex Blanche: NW face

Approach 4 hours of climbing from the Conscrits hut.

From the Conscrits hut leave towards the NE traversing slightly uphill to reach the glacier at around 2800m.

Route

It is possible to pick out the best line from the hut.  Make a rising traverse of the glacier towards the foot of the NW face of Aiguille de la Lex Blanche.  Climb on the left from the spur descending from the summit (western ridge).  Pass a constriction and reach the top of a secondary spur on the left half way up the face. Climb rightwards to the upper part as far as the summit via a slope which steepens, (the last 350 meters at 50°).

Descent

On Foot
Follow the narrow, snow ridge towards the Dôme de Neige (at the foot of the Aiguille des Glaciers), Then descend this ridge towards the Col des Glaciers (3063m).  Overcome a section of rocky ridge, (about 50m, with a move of 3b). From the col descend easy angled slopes of the glacier de Tré la Tête.
On Ski
By the same route (without passing the Conscrits refuge again: descend the right bank of the Glacier de Tré la Tête). The start and the narrows are S5, then S4.  

  • Difficulty: S5 - Very difficult (40-50°)
  • Danger/Exposure: UNKNOWN
  • Time: 06:00 hours
  • Total climb: 1120 m
  • Total elevation drop: 1120 m
  • Highest altitude: 3697 m
  • Lowest altitude: 2580 m
  • Extra gear: None
  • Lift access: No

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