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Aiguille Verte: Whymper couloir

The normal route of the Aiguille Verte !!

Approach from the Couvercle hut2 to 3h

From the hut climb up directly to the N, passing under the Aig du Moine and go along fairly close to the Ecclesiastiques ridge to avoid the crevasses and seracs of the Talèfre glacier until you reach the Whymper Gully.

Route2 to 4h + 30min to the summit

Cross the bergshrund on the right and climb up a little secondary gully.  Exit this gully on the left by a spur to join the main couloir which comes down from the Grande Rocheuse. Climb up to 3650m and traverse to the left in the main couloir which then leads directly to the col between the Aig Verte and the Grande Rocheuse, (2 to 4h, 3950m).  Follow the snow ridge to the summit. (30 minutes).

Descent4 to 6h to the hut

By the Whymper Couloir

From the summit regain the col and go into the Whymper couloir. There are abseil points on the true left side of the gully (often at 60m intervals.) In the last quarter of the descent, go again to the left, (looking downwards) to join a secondary gully which leads to the bergschrund.  Abseil point on the left bank.
Once on the Talèfre glacier, (very crevassed), get back to the Couvercle hut by keeping to the true right side of the glacier, traversing under the Aig du Moine. (The approach route).

By the Moine Ridge

This descent is recommended if the Whymper is too dry or in bad condition, for example late in the day.  The route is mixed, never difficult but long and sustained, starts directly from the summit of the Verte in the direction of the Moine ridge, to the south.  Do not start down the line of abseils  more or less equipped on the Talèfre face. Bypass a pointed pinnacle by the Talèfre face, then stay on this face, under the ridge just to the point 3850m.
Descend a chimney gully, 1 abseil from a metal ring, then continue by slabs and snow bands.  Traverse to the right to a little col, but do not descend the deep gully, instead go to a second little col on a secondary ridge.  Continue to traverse on ledges to the right (S).  Head down towards the bergschrund on the Talèfre glacier, the slope steepens. Go to the left, (abseils possible to reach the glacier).  Once on the glacier (very crevassed) regain the Couvercle hut by taking the true right bank under the Aig du Moine .  

  • Difficulty: S5 - Very difficult (40-50°)
  • Danger/Exposure: E3 - Very high
  • Time: 06:00 hours
  • Total climb: 0 m
  • Total elevation drop: 0 m
  • Length: 3.41 km
  • Highest altitude: 0 m
  • Lowest altitude: 0 m
  • Extra gear: None
  • Lift access: No



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