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Aletschhorn: Par Mittelaletsch
Approachto the Mittelaletsch Bivouac
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From Bettmeralp (recommended): Take the lift to the summit of the Bettmerhon (or skin up to the col pte 2722m if you like ascending pistes. Either way you have no choice after the end of the winter season). Follow the SE ridge until pte 2292m, ski pistes.
Descend to the Aletsch glacier (sustained S4/S5 40/45deg for 150/200m) and cross it by weaving through the crevasses. (The best line is usually directly opposite the Mittelaletsch valley, directly under the Eggishorn.) Then go up the valley and the glacier bowl of the Mittelaletsch to reach the Mittelaletsch bivouac, 3013m.
Route.
Climb up to the Aletschjoch (3614m), follow the NE ridge until to top of the Haslerrippe (3718m) and the first plateau. Gain the fore-summit 4087m (In good conditions it is possible to bypass this to the S either on ski or a section of walking.) Then go up to a second plateau to reach a col at the foot of the summit ridge, 4100m. From here climb the ridge (II, mixed) on foot to the summit.
Descent
Descend the same way until the top of the Haslerrippe (3718m). Then descend the ridge on foot to the Aletschjoch (3610m).
From here descend the Mittelaletsch glacier to the main Aletsch glacier and follow the true right bank. Cross at about 2000m and climb up southwards to the col at 2290m. Descend the pistes to Bettmeralp.
New variant:
Since 2009 it has been feasible to the serac band on the s face, (climate change?).
From Pte 3718m descend SSE to the eastern most end of the serac barrier (3600m) on the S face of the Aletschhorn. There is a then short passage leading to a spur at Pte 3471m. From the spur go E down a fairly steep slope to reach the easier angled Mittlealetcsh glacier and the normal route. (Careful: It is not certain how the seracs will evolve in the future and this route is only to be recommended for descent and in good visibility.)
- Difficulty: S3 - Medium (<35°)
- Danger/Exposure: E1 - Low
- Total climb: 2600 m
- Total elevation drop: 2600 m
- Highest altitude: 4195 m
- Lowest altitude: 1924 m
- Extra gear: None
- Lift access: No