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Breithorn W: Normal route from Klein Matterhorn

Has to be one of the easiest 4000m peaks.  Good for acclimatization.


Take the lift system to the Kleine Matterhorn station


From the station, go to point 3795m and traverse the Breithorn plateau (about 3800m) curving around ENE to the foot of the S face. Cross the bergschrund and go up from right to left to reach the W ridge, which you follow to the summit,(4164m)
(From the Testa Grigia, count on 2h30)


Several options: e.g.
1. By the ascent route
2. By traversing the summit: descend the exposed E ridge to the col 4135m between the W and central summits
From the col, make a return trip to the central and E summits (4159m) by a corniced ridge. A good 30mins for the return trip.
Once back at the col, go to the Breithorn plateau by the S face to rejoin the ascent route.

En cas de brusque changement de temps sur le plateau du Breithorn, seul un alpiniste familiarisé avec les instruments d'orientation pourra trouver son chemin.
Depuis Zermatt, cela fait une bonne montée à pied, mais aucune difficulté. On peut faire étape au refuge du Théodule.
Sommet idéal pour faire découvrir un 4000 à des amis. Malheureusement, les pistes de ski et l'aspect très "fréquenté" de la course ne permettent pas vraiment de goûter à l'ambiance d'un 4000.
Ski and snowboard touring, snowshoeing
Alpine snow, ice and mixed climbing from F to PD+
Crevasse rescue gear
External resources

  • Difficulty: S3 - Medium (<35°)
  • Danger/Exposure: E1 - Low
  • Time: 06:00 hours
  • Total climb: 370 m
  • Total elevation drop: 370 m
  • Highest altitude: 4164 m
  • Lowest altitude: 3795 m
  • Extra gear: None
  • Lift access: No



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