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Cime du Gélas: Traverse

Climb 1: Follow the road until the bridge 1649m. Leave the road to remain on the right bank and again rejoin the road at point 1689m. Follow it until the bridge under the madone refuge 1850m. Go right along the torrent and pass in front of the Madone cow barns. Climb the slopes still on the right of the torrent until a flat area (Gias Cabret 2065m). Enter the Cabret dale then towards 2250m climb on the left via beautiful slopes leading to a flat area (Lac Balaour 2342m). Climb the slope which follows on the right to reach the Lac Cabret 2485m. Go up the dale which passes under the rock bars of the Risso Cabret, and which leads on a flat area to 2950m (the Terrasse du Gelas). From there, go up the S scoop to the balcony of the Gélas 3085m.

Descent 1: From the balcony, take the rock ridge in the direction of the Chaffrion to reach the summit of a corridor (Couloir des Italiens). Depending on the snow conditions, descend the shoot on skis or foot (crampons, ice axe and rope) (45°/50° over 200m, bars downwards on the right). At the bottom of the corridor you take to the Glacier de la Siula on the Italian side, follow a succession of very beautiful broad slopes, while going completely to the left towards the Cresta della Maura. Descend to 1850m slightly uphill from Dado Soria refuge.

Climb 2: Go up the dale to the S until the Col de Fenestre 2474m.

Descent 2: From the corridor descend directly on Lac de Fenestre  2266m then via gentle slopes you reach the Madone dale slightly underneath Gias Cabret where the ascent route is found.

  • Difficulty: S5 - Very difficult (40-50°)
  • Danger/Exposure: E4 - Extremely high
  • Total climb: 2200 m
  • Total elevation drop: 2200 m
  • Highest altitude: 3085 m
  • Lowest altitude: 1500 m
  • Extra gear: None
  • Lift access: No



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