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Col d'Argentière: W Slope

Beautiful route, wilder than its neighbour, the classic Col du Tour Noir. Col d'Argentière is situated at the summit of the Tour Noir glacier so the Col du Tour Noir is at the summit of the Améthystes glacier!  Neither of these two passes is a passage point.

Route5 to 6h (ascent - descent)

From Col des Grands Montets, follow the Argentière refuge route. Head for the "Point de vue" piste and quickly leave it on the right to descend Rognons glacier to the NE towards Argentière glacier. (classic wilderness skiing with numerous variants. You generally cross the ropes via a small opening with an advertising sign). You classically pass near the Rognon at spot elevation 3000 (primarily to the right) then to the south of the Rognons moraine. Via a traverse to the right, you reach the Argentière glaciers and put on skins (since there are areas exposed to avalanches from Aiguille Verte). Go up Argentière glacier with the base of Tour Noir glacier in sight.

Some years, if the snow cover is good, it is possible to traverse the Rognons glacier under Aiguille Verte to pass above the Rognon 2866 and directly reach the base of Tour Noir glacier. (complex route, very crevassed and exposed to serac falls from Verte)

Go up Tour Noir glacier, first primarily on the right bank and around 3150m traverse to the right to avoid a bump and an of crevasses. Then return to the left towards the southwest spur of Tour Noir to go up a steep slope. A traverse over a gentle slope leads to the pass.

Descend via the same route until Argentière glacier which you descend to reach its left bank to find the Grands Montets wilderness skiing area. Follow the left bank of the glacier (the route is sometimes crevassed and narrow) and after a slightly sloping area, leave the glacier uphill from a serac area around 2300m to reach the piste or wilderness skiing area until Argentière. You can also go towards the EMHM building (restaurant). If the snow cover is poor, you can reach Lognan and the "Pierre à Ric" piste with artificial snow.

  • Difficulty: S3 - Medium (<35°)
  • Danger/Exposure: E1 - Low
  • Time: 06:00 hours
  • Total climb: 1000 m
  • Total elevation drop: 1000 m
  • Highest altitude: 3552 m
  • Lowest altitude: 3230 m
  • Extra gear: None
  • Lift access: No



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