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Cornettes de Bise: Couloir du Saix Rouquin

From the small bridge (1120m), follow the snow covered road which leads to the Chevenne chalet (1217m).

From there, there are two possibilities for reaching the base of the corridor: -climb directly to the NW towards Pas de la Bosse (1816m) passing the Cheneau chalet via GR5; -or continue in the direction of Ubine pass to reach the Mens chalets (1588m), Combe du Trot and finally Pas de la Bosse by means of a small traverse under the N slope of Pointe de la Bosse (slightly longer but prettier);

From Pas de la Bosse, traverse towards the SE to reach the base of Saix Rouquin broad couloir or ramp (Note: "saix" comes from Latin and means "rock", and "Rouquin" means "reddish, so "Saix Rouquin" means "Reddish Rock).
Ascend it approximately following the summer route in a secondary couloir to the W of the main Saix Rauquin couloir.
At the top of this smaller couloir one reaches the main slope by a short exposed but not very difficult traverse.
The access to the notch of the Séraukin is defended by a last steep slope (45°).

From the notch, traverse on the S side under the western Cornette then go N to easily reach the edge of the summit crest. Pass around a window (rocky pocket) looking on the N slope, to pass a last steep pitch on the right, then reach the summit cross via broader slopes.

By the same route until the notch of the Saix Rouquin.
Then remain in the broad slopes of the main couloir bordered by the walls of the SW ridge.
Lastly, take one of the routes described above to reach the Chalets de Chevenne.

  • Difficulty: S5 - Very difficult (40-50°)
  • Danger/Exposure: E3 - Very high
  • Time: 06:00 hours
  • Total climb: 1284 m
  • Total elevation drop: 1272 m
  • Length: 9.7 km
  • Highest altitude: 2289 m
  • Lowest altitude: 1140 m
  • Extra gear: None
  • Lift access: No



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