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Dents du Midi - Brèche des Doigts: Couloir Nord

From the hairpin turn (1206m) traverse the Soi torrent slightly to the S of the Frassenaye hamlet, take a walkway which climbs in the forest and which joins the Soi road. Follow it for awhile.

There are two possibilities for reaching the foot of the corridor: -at the third hairpin turn, take a walkway which traverses the torrent to reach the Soi d'en Bas chalet (1679m). Go towards the SSE, the slopes become rather steep and intersect with bars to reach a small scoop framed by the ridges of Sélaire and Sex Bornay. Go around the bump 2289m on the right (S) and you end up on the plateau of the Soi glacier;

-after the fourth hairpin turn (possibility of cutting between the hairpins), take a walkway which leads around the Soi d'en Haut chalet (1864m). Cut across the high mountain pastures to join the Soi ridge. Follow it towards the SE (sometimes visible walkway) until the ridge gets towards 2050m then leave it forking towards the right (S). Traverse above a rock band and reach a plateau (Les Grus) then a new steep pitch that is crossed easily. You emerge in a large basin occupied by the Lac de Soi (2247m). The traverse to the SSW in the direction of the cone corridors of  Dent Jaune and des Doigts. This second route is very pretty and particularly advantageous when one can climb high enough in the car via the Soi road in spring.

Approach the cone which becomes steeper then divides into two branches: the corridor of  Dent Jaune to the left (E) and the corridor of des Doigts on the right (W).

Go up the corridor des Doigts, initially quite broad. You pass a throat halfway up and then reach steep, but broader slopes (S5). 200m before the top out, the corridor divides into two branches. The one on the right (while climbing) is steeper (S5) but 20m less in height while the one on the left, slightly easier, emerges at the foot of the des Doigts summit gendarmes.

Descent: by the same route giving preference to the option joining the Soi d'en Bas farm.

The route is described in François Labande's topo-guide, Ouest-Suisse, course n°16.

  • Difficulty: S5 - Very difficult (40-50°)
  • Danger/Exposure: E3 - Very high
  • Time: 06:00 hours
  • Total climb: 2000 m
  • Total elevation drop: 2000 m
  • Highest altitude: 3190 m
  • Lowest altitude: 1206 m
  • Extra gear: None
  • Lift access: No



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