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Hochalmspitze: East side, from Maltatal


Gmünder Hütte (Malatatal), 1180m.


From Gmünder Hütte, take the path up to Villacher Hütte (description on that page).



From the hut, follow the sign up the path, cross the bridge, and scramble up (red/white markings) in a general E direction. Reach the Hochalmkees (glacier) around 2700m, cross it by staying on its S side (left when going up) and reach the ridge between the Steinerne Mandln rock formation and the summit. Once on the ridge, follow it to the summit. Wide and easy at the start, gets narrower, steeper and exposed at the end. A few moves of climbing might be necessary, depending on the conditions.


From the hut, cross the Langboden cliffs just south of the hut (there's a few passages), then head up E/SE, just N (left) of the Schwarze Schneid peaks. Once on the glacier (around 2700m) head up to the E, heading to the right (N) of Hochalmspizte. Once directly N of the summit, around 3200m, turn S and reach the ridge (small but obvious passage), and follow it to the ski summit at 3340m. Then on foot - crampons - for the last 20m (exposed) to the cross.


Same way.
Or steeper: go down more N on the glacier, just to the left of Preimlspitz, to reach the Preimlsee and from there down the Langboden to Villacher Hütte.
There is a possibility of going down directly from Villacher Hütte to the road at 1750m.

  • Difficulty: S3 - Medium (<35°)
  • Danger/Exposure: UNKNOWN
  • Total climb: 2174 m
  • Total elevation drop: 2174 m
  • Highest altitude: 3360 m
  • Lowest altitude: 1186 m
  • Extra gear: None
  • Lift access: No



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