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Mont Blanc: Traverse of the 3 "Monts"

Rivalling in popularity with the Gouter route, because a lot of people are put off by the Grand Couloir.  However, it is not without objective dangers, e.g. serac collapse and windslab.


From the Aig du Midi cable car station, go down the E ridge and cross the snow bowl under the S face of the Aig du Midi to the Cosmiques hut.


Follow the Mont Blanc du Tacul normal route (N face) to the shoulder at 4075m.  Traverse to get to the Col Maudit.
Go up the Mont Maudit slopes to just right of the summit, the Col du Mont Maudit 4345m.  The section below the col can be either snow or ice (50m at 50°, belay with slings on the rocks in the middle of the slope.)
Contour to reach the Col de la Brenva 4305m.
Climb the "Mur de la Côte" and then the easier angled summit slopes to the top, 4807m.


•    By the same route;
•    By the Bosses ridge, the Gouter hut and the train from Nid d’Aigle;
•    Early in the season, by the Grands Mulets (serac fall danger, plus open crevasses later in the season.)   

  • Difficulty: S4 - Difficult (<45°)
  • Danger/Exposure: E2 - Medium/High
  • Total climb: 1383 m
  • Total elevation drop: 3866 m
  • Length: 18.05 km
  • Highest altitude: 4814 m
  • Lowest altitude: 1047 m
  • Extra gear: None
  • Lift access: No



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