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Mont Dolent: S Face (normal way), from Swiss Val Ferret

High mountain tour to a superb summit which can be done in a very long day or by sleeping at the bivouac hut.

Ascentto the Cesare Fiorio Bivouac:

Route with grid references from the Swiss map:

After La Fouly, park the car 100m before Le Clou  (573470-86150). Go down to the Dranse de Ferret and cross it bridge. Climb back up to the SW until 1798m (573200-85640). Go S, then slightly to the E to reach la Léchere (573340-85420).
Climb SW and then go along the Crette de la Gouille to the S, until the NE foot of the Crette de la Perche (8572515-84495). Continue diagonally slightly rightwards and go into the Combe des Fonds. Follow this to the Petit Col Ferret (571180-82875).

At the end of the season or when there is a very low avalanche risk, it is possible to go up the Combe des Fonds from la Fouly, (same start as for the Grande Lui).

Cross the col to the right without losing any height  to reach the S ridge of the Pointe de Allobrogia (570935-82815). Go NW pour to reach the Fiorio hut (570595-83415).

AscentFrom the bivouac to the summit of Mont Dolent:

Go W, then slightly N to reach the Pré de Barre glacier (569955-83780) close to a rocky spur (2900m). The traverse on steep slopes towards the glacier,  ski crampons may be necessary.

Going N pass to the E of Points 3188m et 3336m (569975-84530). Go up the glacier to the bergshrund. Go up the final snow slopes until the foot of the rocks on the SE ridge, ski depot.  Keep to the W side of the SE ridge then go up a gully to rejoin the ridge just before the summit.


If conditions allow it is possible to ski from the summit, (see remarks).  Make an exposed traverse under the ridge to reach a large gully.  Descend the first part and make a little traverse to the left to reach the ascent gully.  
For the remainder the descent route is basically the same as for the ascent, choosing the best slopes for skiing.

  • Difficulty: S4 - Difficult (<45°)
  • Danger/Exposure: E2 - Medium/High
  • Total climb: 2220 m
  • Total elevation drop: 2220 m
  • Highest altitude: 3820 m
  • Lowest altitude: 1600 m
  • Extra gear: None
  • Lift access: No



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