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Mont Maudit: N face, Normal route (+ E ridge)

Mainly glacier climbing to this 4000m summit, which lies between Mont Blanc du Tacul and Mt Blanc.  It can be climbed as part of the ascent of Mt Blanc by the "Trois Monts" route" or as a beautiful summit in its own right.

ApproachFrom the Aig du Midi lift or, in order to make an early start, from the Cosmiques hut

Route

Cross the Col du Midi plateau towards the Triangle du Tacul paasing below the Cosmiques hut and close to the Col du Midi. Climb up, trending rightwards, to the shoulder of the Mont Blanc du Tacul, 4080m, usually well tracked. The first bergschrund may be problematical, the sewcond usually easier. Move quickly beneath the seracs. (2h from the Cosmiques hut)
From here it is possible to continue on the Normal route of the Mont Blanc du Tacul to its summit, (bit of mixed at the end), returning the same way to the shoulder.
From the shoulder go towards the col Maudit 4035m. From this col, go due W to pass below some large seracs.  Once past these, go up Mont Maudit's N face to about 4250m. Head due W again for the col du Mont Maudit.
Often you come across steep climbing for several metres at a bergschrund. After this climb a snow slope (40-45°) to rocks and the possibility of a good belay. The next pitch leads to the col where often there is a large wooden anchor stake.
From the col there are two options:
1. Follow the NW ridge to the left by snow slopes and easy mixed sections directly to the summit,
2. From behind the col, contour due S and, once past some rocks on the left, go up the W facing slopes to the summit.

Variant : Finish by the E ridge
On the N face of Mont Maudit traverse to the left to the shoulder, "Epaule du Maudit" and then climb the corniced E ridge (finish of the Kuffner route) to the summit.
Alternatively, join the ridge lower down directly from the Col Maudit, climbing two rock bands, (mixed,) to reach the snowy, corniced ridge where it joins the Kuffner route

Descent3h to the Aig du Midi

The descent by one of the two ascent routes.  From the col du Mont Maudit, It is possible to make two short abseils to the bergschrund.

  • Difficulty: S5 - Very difficult (40-50°)
  • Danger/Exposure: E2 - Medium/High
  • Time: 06:00 hours
  • Total climb: 1250 m
  • Total elevation drop: 1250 m
  • Highest altitude: 4465 m
  • Lowest altitude: 3842 m
  • Extra gear: None
  • Lift access: No

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