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Mont Pourri: Normal route from Glacier du Geay

Access to Mont Pourri refuge via Vallée du Ponturin (Peisey-Nancroix): At the place called "Pont Baudin" (alt. 1471m, 3km. to the SE of Peisey, restaurant-bars), follow the uncleared road and pass on the right of the hamlet of the Lanches (alt. (1523m). Continue on the cross-country skiing track to reach the Rosuel refuge (alt. 1556m) at the end of the road. Follow the GR5 towards Lac de la Plagne. This trail climbs gradually on the left bank of the valley and reaches the scrub around an altitude of 1742 meters. Continue this trail and cross the "Lanches de la Rèbe" (small sequence on a rock ledge frozen around 1916m). Once you reach the larch forest, the trail faces south and you penetrate the top of the dale. When the route leaves the forest (around spot elevation 2002, shelter-sheep barn of "Derrière la Rèbe"), traverse to the side to reach the right bank of the dale and to go back up to the NNE while staying to the right of the rock barriers. Around 2191m, cross Ruisseau du Prêtre and climb to the north towards the foot of "Montagne du Carro". Stay up high under the rocks to reach the slopes located under Geay glacier (small steep sequence of 20 meters in chimney, S3). At spot elevation 2365, go completely north to reach the base of the right side moraine of the glacier (refuge  annexe, dilapidated, 2468m). Via a traverse to the NW, you reach Mont Pourri refuge (alt. 2370) located under the SW ridge of Aiguille du Saint Esprit. It takes 3h.

From the refuge go up the slopes of Plan de la Citra to the east, in the direction of the right side moraine of the glacier. Once reached, continue it on its ridge until coming under Aiguille du Saint Esprit. Take foot easily on Geay glacier and go up its right bank. Around an altitude of 3000 meters, the route joins the middle of the glacier (crevasses and seracs). Some manouevres later, around 3300 meters, you reach the plateau located under the Col des Roches. It takes 2h15.

Go right towards the summit of Mont Pourri, while slaloming between seracs and crevasses (sometimes difficult sequences). Cross several small steep pitches in S4 (exposed over hard snow). The last bergschrund, between 3400 and 3500 meters, can be difficult to cross. Then go right towards the "Shoulder" of Mont Pourri (3650m) and go back up the western ridge to the summit. The last fifty meters at 45° are often cleared (fresh ice and rocks). It takes 1h15.

Descent: By the same route. It is not necessary to pass the refuge again: at an altitude of 2900 meters, stay on the Geay glacier and skirt the large side moraine. At spot elevation 2595, traverse to the left to come under the last rock exposures of the western ridge of Mont Pourri  (Montagne du Carro). Then follow the ascent route. It takes 3h30.

  • Difficulty: S4 - Difficult (<45°)
  • Danger/Exposure: E2 - Medium/High
  • Time: 06:00 hours
  • Total climb: 1425 m
  • Total elevation drop: 1425 m
  • Highest altitude: 3779 m
  • Lowest altitude: 2370 m
  • Extra gear: None
  • Lift access: No



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