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Petite Aiguille Verte: Chevalier Couloir

Good route for gaining confidence in mixed gully climbing, with a vey short approach yet in an impressive position.

Approach15min

From the top station of the Grands Montets, go down the ski piste towards the Argentiere glacier for about 150 metres. Keeping fairly high, go along the base of the rock buttresses of the NE ridge of the Grand Montets/Petite Verte to the base of the couloir.

Route

The gully is obvious. It starts slightly to the right, with only the lower third visible from the bergschrund.   Find a way over the bergschrund, (not always easy, sometimes you have to use the rocks on the right.)
Climb the snow slopes, the exit is made up an easy slope of mixed, (if there is not a lot of snow,) to reach a ridge in the shape of a half moon.   If you want to go onto the summit, follow the route for the NE ridge, (snow and ice,) to reach a little gap at the foot of the rocks on the normal route.  Some rock climbing (3b) to reach the summit.

Descent

By the normal route to the Cable car station On skis, (please see French version)
  • Difficulty: S5 - Very difficult (40-50°)
  • Danger/Exposure: E2 - Medium/High
  • Time: 06:00 hours
  • Total climb: 350 m
  • Total elevation drop: 350 m
  • Highest altitude: 3512 m
  • Lowest altitude: 3150 m
  • Extra gear: None
  • Lift access: No

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