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Piz Bernina: Via the Marco e Rosa hut (Spallagrat)

Approachto the Marco e Rosa hut (new since 2002)

From Diavolezza:
From the top of the Diavolezza lift (2973m), go down to the S to reach the glacier (2757m).  Go due S along the rocks covering the glacier to Pte 3146.  At a flat area of the glacier traverse W towards Pte 3186 (col) to the N of the Fortezzagrat.  From this col, firstly follow the glacier on the western side of the ridge, then on the eastern side. until you come up against the S ridge of the Fortezzagrat (3372m). Climb the ridge (III ,well equipped and with yellow/red markings.)   From the Fortezzagrat, pass to the S, under the Aiguilles de Bellavista to reach the Marco e Rosa hut to the W (3597). The traverse is made at 3600m.  However, as there are many crevasses, it is necessary to make a lot of detours.

From Rozeg: not yet translated
Depuis Rozeg (1900m) monter par le chemin qui méne a la cabanne Coax en suivant la rive gauche de la vallée. Depuis la Cabane de Coax gagner le glacier vers le sud et remonter jusqu'à au point 2870m en appuyant a l'E pour contourner un champ de séracs, redescendre de l'autre coté (E) de ce champ pour aller chercher, vers 2830m la partie inferieur d'un éperon rocheux que l'on dépasse par le bas, toujours direction E, et remonter aprés le glacier de la Sella en direction SE pour gagner la Fuorcla de la Sella. (3265m).
De là continuer en direction SE vers le bivouac Parravicine (3183m) et avant d'ârriver passer l'éperon neigeux a l'E qui nous permet gagner la Vedretta di Scersen Superiore, grand plateau dominé par le Piz Bernina. Vers le NE, aprés contourner une grand zone de débris rocheux, viser le grand couloir qui méne à la Fuorcla Crast'Aguzza, que l'on remonte directement (200m a 40° et puis 100m a 45°-50°) ou sur la rive droite par le chemin équipé de chaînes sur le rocher.
En haut de ce couloir, sur sa rive droite, se trouve le refuge de Marco et Rosa
From the Rifugio Marinelli:
Climb up to the Passo Marinelli occidental and traverse the Vedretta di Scerscen Superiore to the Crast Aguzza gully. Climb this (200m at 40° and then 100m a 45°-50°), to reach the Marco e Rosa hut.

RoutePiz Bernina by the Spallagrat

From the hut, go to the foot of the SSE ridge (about 3840m). Follow the crest of the ridge to a first step which you pass to the W, (left looking up), a move of 3/4 very well equipped.  Follow the crest to a fore-summit (La Spalla, 4020m), some moves of 2/3, also well equipped.  Depending upon conditions, it is possible to bypass some of the difficulties on snow slopes. From the fore-peak, continue easily along the ridge to the summit, initially snowy and then rocky.  


Return by the same route, abseil points in-situ.  The first rock step can be avoided by going to the SW, 20m above the step, and descending a ramp which leads to the foot of the face.

  • Difficulty: S4 - Difficult (<45°)
  • Danger/Exposure: UNKNOWN
  • Time: 06:00 hours
  • Total climb: 450 m
  • Total elevation drop: 450 m
  • Highest altitude: 4048 m
  • Lowest altitude: 3597 m
  • Extra gear: None
  • Lift access: No



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