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Pointe Zumstein: Traverse of six "4000"

Approach

From Alagna :
Take the lifts to Passo dei Salati then Punta Indrien(3275m). (Attention: the Alagna lift is not always running. Price was 35€ return trip 2013.)
From Stafal:
By three lift sections, first lift at 8h15; to the Passo dei Salati (2936m), then Punta Indrien (3275m). Price was 31€ return trip 2013
From the top station, go NW across the Indren glacier and go a round the rocky ridge descending from the Vincent Pyramide at about 3380m, and so up to the Gnifetti Hut (3611m).

Route

Go up the Lys glacier under the W flank of the Vincent Pyramide  and cross the snow hump at 4252m, to the east of the Lisjoch (4153m) to reach the Gnifetti col(4452m. From the col climb to the summit of the Zumsteinspitze (4563m) by the frontier ridge. Next climb the Signalkuppe (4554m) which has the Margharita hut on its summit. Re-descend and contour at around 4200m to the foot of the Parrotspize (4432m).  Climb this by a snow slope at 50º.  Now climb the Ludwigshöhe (4311m) by its N side. To climb the Corno Nero (or Schwarzhorn) (4321m), go down directly to the saddle between it and the Ludwigshöhe and so up to the summit. Then go to the Vincent col (4087m) and climb up to the Vincent Pyramide (4215m).

Descent

Rejoin the ascent route and so back down to the Gnifetti hut.

  • Difficulty: S4 - Difficult (<45°)
  • Danger/Exposure: UNKNOWN
  • Total climb: 1798 m
  • Total elevation drop: 1798 m
  • Highest altitude: 4554 m
  • Lowest altitude: 3260 m
  • Extra gear: None
  • Lift access: No

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