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Roc de Tavaneuse: Ardens Traverse

From Prétairié, follow the road for the Serranants chalets (1403m). You reach a large plateau giving access to two scoops separated by the rocky cliffs of the Mont-Brion. Go up the left side of the scoop to reach the Passage de Savolaire (1930m, S3 in the last slopes under the pass). Then go up then the W ridge of Roc de Tavaneuse, often poorly snow covered, to reach the NW secondary summit then the summit of the Roc by taking a small chimney-corridor (the second on the left).

There are several possibilities for the descent: -continue by the ESE ridge towards Tavaneuse pass and descend towards Lac de Tavaneuse (1806m) by broad slopes (the easiest one); -return the small summit corridor or traverse the N slope for a few tens of meters and descend the broad slopes of the NE face (40° at the start, 36°/250m on average, S4 then S3). Remaining well on the right, near the ESE ridge, the slopes are slightly more unrelenting (S4). You put your skins back on near the Tavaneuse chalets around 1700m. Take go completely S to climb to  Lac de Tavaneuse.

From the lake, climb to the E to reach the Entre-deux-Pertuis pass (1920m). From the notch, there are again two possibilities: -traverse while remaining as much as possible level with the neck Pirons d'Ardens (1875m) and emerge in the dale of Ardens ; -descend the Entre-deux-Pertuis scoop until chalets bearing the same name (1703m) then climb to Pointe d'Ardens (1959m) by its pretty W face.

You can reach the Ardens chalet (1732) either by the SE ridge of Pointe d'Ardens, or by the base of the dale, and finish the traverse via the Cubourré chalet (1268m) and forest road leading to the Lac des Plagnes parking lot (1191m).

  • Difficulty: S4 - Difficult (<45°)
  • Danger/Exposure: UNKNOWN
  • Time: 06:00 hours
  • Total climb: 1467 m
  • Total elevation drop: 1409 m
  • Length: 10.55 km
  • Highest altitude: 2157 m
  • Lowest altitude: 1144 m
  • Extra gear: None
  • Lift access: No



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