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Tête de Valpelline: From Rifugio Aosta

Overall a complete and rewarding alpine itinerary.

Day 1 4-5 hours.

In about 1 hour from Place Moulin to Prarayer, skis on the backpack. After Prarayer, if the left part of the valley doesn't have sufficient snow, it is better to keep going on the right side contouring an evident rock, until mid-valley. From there avoid to approach the hut from the summer track on the right, on the steep moraine, and take a slightly longer approach from the left under the glacier of Tsa de Tsan (some possibly falling ice block...).

Day 2

Steep slopes above the hut. The coloir (80-100m) to the Col de la Division is a classical alpine coloir, with loose rocks covered by snow and ice. Crampons and axe necessary. Although not so steep it requires attention and energy. We climbed up without rope but we placed 2 fixed ropes going down in the afternoon. Above to Col de la Division move on the left of the Tsa de Tsan glacier and then to the col between Tete Blanche and Tete de Valpelline. Turn S and by gentle slopes on the top. Consider 4-5 hours depending on the mountain conditions. An ashtonishing view of the W face of Matterhorn and Dent d' Herens makes the Tete of Valpelline a rewarding summit. Unfortunalty is also an unofficial drop summit for heliski.  

  • Difficulty: S4 - Difficult (<45°)
  • Danger/Exposure: E2 - Medium/High
  • Total climb: 1050 m
  • Total elevation drop: 1050 m
  • Highest altitude: 3802 m
  • Lowest altitude: 2020 m
  • Extra gear: None
  • Lift access: No

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