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Dôme de Polset: Normal route from Peclet-Polset Refuge

Dôme de Polset is a classic beginner route of the Vanoise for walking on glacier. It does not have steep slopes, but the glacier can be rather crevassed. Climbing Gébroulaz glacier as the sun rises is an unforgettable memory.

From Peclet Polset refuge the day before walk two hours from Pont de la Pêche parking lot, during the might follow the broad path towards Lac Blanc and Col du Soufre. Very quickly, the path goes down about sixty meters to skirt the bank of Lac Blanc. Continue via a hard climb towards the Col du Soufre. You arrive at a flat area underneath the Col du Souffre at 2740 meters, leave the main path to climb on the crest of the moraine on the left via a small trail. Follow the crest of the moraine, then continue via the horizontal path badly marked with blank to reach the base of the glacier. It takes a good hour from the refuge.

Put on the crampons and tie on at this place. Usually,the glacier is climbed via a characteristic ridge, but in 2003 you had to stay on the left side of the glacier at the foot of the crag before reaching the ledge. Follow the glacier in its centre, then around 3000 meters fork to the SSE to go up the entire glacier. Be careful of the big crevasses around 3000 meters. Look at the rock in the shape of a horse head on the right. Around 3300 meters fork to the south on a steeper slope which comes very close to 30 degrees to reach a shoulder. From the shoulder, the Dôme is very near. Pass it skirting the rocks towards the Aig de Polset, then reach the Dôme via a small fully west facing slope. The Dôme  is very broad, most of the rocks provide shelter from the north wind. It takes 4 to 5 hours from the refuge.

It also is possible to climb the Aiguille de Polset just to the side. It takes an additional 40 minutes. The Aiguille is normally climbed without crampons via a short easy climb. The summit is rather exposed, but well worth the detour.

The descent is carried out by the same route. Be very careful of the crevasses because the snow transforms quickly on the base of the glacier. It takes 3 hours from the summit to Peclet Polset refuge.

  • Difficulty: UNKNOWN
  • Danger/Exposure: UNKNOWN
  • Time: 06:00 hours
  • Total climb: 1657 m
  • Total elevation drop: 620 m
  • Length: 12.73 km
  • Highest altitude: 2482 m
  • Lowest altitude: 1445 m
  • Extra gear: None
  • Lift access: No



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